Hello Duhlink!
Hope you are feeling okay after learning of John's death. I know you were upset, for many good reasons, but know you are with close friends so that will help. You will see that I sent both an email to Ayn and a card.
We
enjoyed our breakfast and then took quick showers to leave house at
around 10:30 am. By this time sky was almost completely clear
of clouds and sun was shining brightly upon the Two Buffoons! I'd
plotted out a route just before we left and The Navigator wrote down
road numbers and villages we'd pass through once leaving Béziers. Knew
how to get there but after that, all was unknown territory.
Managed to take a few wrong turns after leaving Capestang behind but nothing that a bit of creative dipsy-doodling, on my part, and Jamie's requests for directions from people along the roadside, couldn't set straight, and we were soon entering the Minervois appellation. Somewhere between Argeliers and the funnily named, (at least to us!), Homps we first started to see domaine signs advertising this designation:
AOC regulations require the wine to be blended, so single varietals are necessarily Vin de Pays. Historically, the region's capital has been the village of Minerve.
For my part I was delighted to discover the region as I've known about it for sometime, (basically from bottle labels), but never really knew where in France it was to be found. Countryside, as we continued on towards Carcassone isn't as hilly as what we'd left behind, flatter and more open, so we sped along past La Redorte and Pulcheric, through Marseillette and Trèbes and were soon in the outskits of Carcassonne itself. Although Jamie had been there years ago he had arrived by train so didn't really know the place. This being the case we simply proceeded into le Centre de la Ville to scope things out. Took a quick turn through and around the core, getting a better idea of where to park, if one should wish to wander the streets there, and then, turning back, we followed the signs for Le Cité. Here continueth the history lesson:
The Cité de Carcassonne is a medieval fortified architectural group located on the right bank of the Aude, on the hill, in the south-east part of the actual city. It was the historic city of Carcassonne. The Cité was founded in the Gallo-Roman period. It derives its reputation from double surrounding walls (3 km in length) with 52 towers. The town has about 2,500 years of history: it has seen the Romans, Visigoths, Saracens and Crusaders. In the beginning of its history it was a Gaulish settlement. In the 3rd century A.D., the Romans decided to transform it into a fortified town. The town was finally annexed to the kingdom of France in 1247 A.D. It was a strong French frontier between France and the Crown of Aragon.
In 1659, after the Treaty of the Pyrenees, the province of Roussillon became a part of France, and the town lost its military significance. Fortifications were abandoned and the town became one of the economic centres of France, concentrating on the woollen textile industry.
In 1849 the French government decided that the city fortifications should be demolished. This decision was strongly protested by the masses. Jean-Pierre Cros-Mayrevieille and Prosper Mérimée, an eminent archaeologist and historian, led a campaign to preserve the fortress as an historical monument. The government reversed its decision and in 1853 restoration work was started. Eugène Viollet-le-Duc, the architect, was charged with renovating the fortress.Viollet-le-Duc's work was criticised during his lifetime as inappropriate to the climate and traditions of the region. After his death in 1879, the restoration work was continued by his pupil, Paul Boeswillwald, and later by the architect Nodet. The town was restored at the end of the 19th century. In 1997 it was added to UNESCO's list of World Heritage Sites.
More by good luck than management we found free parking not far from the outer walls of the fortress. Once Sir James had changed into his runners, we walked the short distance, up a fairly steep, decent, narrow cobbled lane, (much like the grade, [not quite as steep and long, however], and surface to St Michael's Mount in Cornwall), to the gain access to the complex on the opposite side to the main entrance. Although place is obviously a tourist attraction the numerous restaurants and countless shops don't really spoil the narrow, twisting, colourful/ interesting streets/laneways. Much like Dubrovnik or York, one can walk most of the battlement walls so after scoping out entrance fee, €8.50, to Le Château Comtal, only section requiring a ticket, I decided I'd wait until your visit. Jamie had been before, back in the 90's, so he wasn't fussed either. Funnily enough, when we asked about possibility of visiting Museum Shop we were told that only one person, per party, was allowed to do so. When Jamie said, "C'est riducule!" the official replied: "C'est comme ça, monsieur!" We walked away, Le Due Buffoni chortling about the sheer absurdity of the situation. How were they to know we were "a party" if we came back separately, per esempio. If nothing else, why wouldn't administration want to generate as many sales as possible? Anyway, we continued on, exploring the small town within the massive walls.
After following our noses for about half an hour, we found ourselves at the Office de Tourisme and obtained a very good double-sided maps of La Cité Médiévale, and perhaps, more importantly, discovered where the Toilettes publique were located, just ouside Pont Marengo, the main entrance. The washrooms were fairly decent so good to know about them. We then proceeded to walk, in a counter-clockwise direction, along the outer walls after happening upon a flight of stairs near La Porte Narbonnaise, entrée principale. Simply magnificent views of the surrounding countryside and more modern city of Carcassonne plus surrounding hills, etched against the sky, as well as marvellous aspects of La Cité itself, across the lovely tiled rooftops of the densely packed buildings, seeing towers and turrets and spires all jumbled together, and even peeping into the manicured back gardens of the homes, (I presume the fronts of these selfsame buildings are restaurants or shops, of one sort or another), of those who now inhabit this fabled place, like those who live within the walls of York and Dubrovnik, although I don't recall seeing any washing hanging out to dry, as was often the case in the latter.
Another half an hour or so later, we found ourselves on the rempart intérieur adjacent to the Château Comtal and following a flight of stairs descended into a large internal square which boasts to magnificent plane trees. I realized, (Don't think Fumble von Bumble was aware of what had happened as when we were finally outside the entrance again, I mentioned that we hadn't paid and he wondered if we should tell someone!), that we had circumvented security, such as it was, and were free to wander, at will, without having to pay the entrance fee. Wasn't that I didn't want to pay but since we were here and had encountered the bureaucratic response recounted earlier, thought I'd enjoy "hopping the fence", so to speak, a practice I followed as a young teenager in the early '60's, to gain access to the Red River Ex, then held at Polo Park, beside the Winnipeg Arena.
A bit more clandestine activity which meant going through an open door, Accès Interdit, leading to a stairway, no chain blocking the way, back up to the interior walls around the Château, and we were on tour again. This time, once back at the Château itself, we spent the best part of an hour in the museum here. Mainly statuary and building ornamentation unearthed from various archeological digs but a very interesting series of displays on le Canal du Midi and its construction in and around Carcassonne, which Jamie was better able to understand as it was in French only.
Once we'd spent another hour or so here, we proceeded to the infamous Museum Shop and I purchased two fridge magnets, assuaging my not very guilty conscience! We then followed the correct sens de la visit, climbing a huge wooden staircase to follow the battlements, two of the connecting walls, covered with massive roofs, similar to covered wooden bridges. This took us back to the place where we had first breached security so we descended the stairs to the courtyard and made our way back into the village proper.
I had wanted to buy a straw hat I'd seen earlier so left Sir James to browse at a bookstore and went in search of mon chapeau de paille. Picked out a bright orange one in red was far too, too small for my swollen head! Found Jamie sitting on a stone block, happily reading a guidebook and then we made our way back to the car. Made a wrong turn on way out of town but receiving directiosn from les flics, two freindly polocemen standing on a corner, we were set straight and were soon zooming back along the way we'd come this morning. Fumble form Bumble did his Cora Lee interpretation and fell asleep shortly after we left the outskirts of the city. By this time I knew where I was going so was pleased that he could nap.
Back into Béziers and then out again to follow the now familiar route to Roujan and then into Super U for a few groceries. Home by 6:45 pm and we both suited up and went for separate rides. Jamie didn't want to go for as long a ride as one we did yesterday so I sketched out what I thought was an appropriate route for him. Gave him one of my LED lights and wished him lick, setting off in the opposite direction. Stats for my ride:
http://connect.garmin.com/activity/376831681#.UjdfUoaYkeE.email
Back at 9:30 am to find Jamie just about to take his bath. He'd enjoyed his ride and had chatted with a number of locals, along the way. While Lord Fumble was bathing I put together dinner: pork chops in tomatoe sauce; sautéed zucchini, tomatoes, oniones with Camembert melted on top and boiled new, red potatoes. Opened a Terres en Cooleurs, 2010 Feuille d'Art, (Syrah, Grenache), 14%, wonderful tannins melting into the very, very pleasant, lingering peppery finish. Loads to talk about over and after dinner and not into bed until well past midnight.
Up at 8:29 am this morning. Lazy sleep-in for both of us. After breakfast of cereal and boiled eggs and yesterday's croissants, (still moist and tasty), we chatted about U of W and everything else under the sun until around 1:00 pm. I put on a load of laundry and once it is finished we'll ahng it up to dry befoer going on a ride, a variation of what I did yesterday as it won't involve any gruelling hills for Sir James. Then back for a shower and change and then to visit Patrick and Nathalie Goma, owners of Terres en Couleurs, for a dégustation! At the market, last Saturday, they mentioned the evening was the best time, given that Le Vendage, grape harvest is on. (Noted, on yesterday's drive that there were many, many signs posted along the road, stating "Attention Vendage en Progrès")
Time to ride so must away. Jamie sends along his condolences and love and is glad your injury is less painful. Much love, darling. Enjoy Tuscany and hello to The Book Club Sisterhood. Send me your arrival time in Béziers when you have a moment between bottles of Prosecco, as not much longer before the 22nd. Fondestos and Cheers, Patrizzio!
Pics: a few more shots of La Cité!
Scammage!
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Hi Mom
John went peacefully about an hour after I left to catch my flight. Erich and Jonathan Vogt were with him at his side. Very sad but glad he is at peace.
Hi Ayn, good that John is at peace but very sad that his life ended that way. It was so important that you were there. I'm sure it made a difference. Is Erich planning a service? as i'm sure John would not want one. Lovely day here after rain during the night. A day of rest for the group after everyone's travels. Love you, big hug,
Mom
Chloe
Thank you again for all the visits you made possible while I was in
Vancouver. I love the bowl and you can sit it looks beautiful in my
place. It complements the Aubergine pot that I covet (thank you Poppa)
so well!
Such wonderful news that you were able to raise so much for Aunt
Leah's Place this Saturday. Your words at the door of VGH on Sunday gave
me much strength. Love Ayn
Hi Poppa
John passed away about an hour after I left and Erich and Jonathan Vogt were with him.
We had some lovely visits during his more lucid moments and I am
very grateful to all the Vancouver Vogts for taking such care of him
these last few years
Back in LA. Hope you're enjoying all the French biking. Love Ayn
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