Thursday 26 September 2013

Beau Soleil Blues: Friday, September 27th, Penultimate Day in Neffiès!

The best music is essentially there to provide you something to face the world with. -Bruce Springsteen, musician (b. 1949) 


Hello Badminton Social/Cultural Butterfly!

No wonder you didn't have time to come and relax in the south of France! Is the "Lloyds" you mention the maritime insurance firm? I think I might have walked by the building when I was looking for the Gherkin myself, back in 2010, day I also attended a service at St Paul's. I gather this is The City! Don't know the Brecht play but am envious as I do like his work. Macheath, later to become Mack the Knife, is one of my favourite dramatic characters, not to mention Bobby Darin's version of the song. For my part, I've just had to console myself by drinking copious amounts of fabulous wines in the cultural arts desert of our tiny village!

Before I forget, would it be possible for you to book us a cab for Saturday, October 19th. Our Air Transat flight, #677, leaves Gatwick at 9:20 am so I guess we'll need to leave Mill Hill at 5:00 am or earlier. Not sure of time it takes to drive there at that time of morning so will let you decide best departure time. We need to be at airport about three hours ahead of flight departure, to be on safe side. Thanks.

On Tuesday, we drove to Montpellier, only about an hour away, just a zip along the toll-free highway. Found, by simple chance, a parking spot on the street which was right next to the huge, walled plaza, (Didn't know it at the time!), which is located in front of the Arc de Triomphe-like structure leading to the historic centre of Montpellier. We spent about three hours wandering the streets. Since it is a university town is was bustling with students, much like Berkeley, so it has a wonderful feel. Seemingly quite a wealthy city as street after narrow street of very high end shops, filled with extremely well-dressed people. Cora Lee was in shopping heaven so she sent me off on an errand, (I needed a dongle to enable cell Wifi capability when aboard the canal barge.), so she could window-shop, (Ha!), unencumbered by a peevish male!

We rendezvoused back at the car at around 5:00 pm and I was looking forward to going for a ride once home, assuming we'd be home just after 6:00 pm. Unfortunately, it wasn't as easy getting back onto route we had taken into town and it was also rush hour by then, which didn't help matters, as you can imagine. By the time we had missed the right freeway turn and doubled back and extricated ourselves from a massive roundabout jam it was after 6:00 pm, time we were supposed to have been back at Beau Soleil! No matter as it was a glorious late afternoon and countryside was lovely as we made our way back to Neffiès.

Wednesday we drove to Carcassonne. Took the toll highway out of Béziers as wanted to see what it was like and how much. We left at just after 8:15 am and were in Carcassonne befoer 10:00 am so a very efficeint way to go. Cost €6.50 but one can fly along at 130 km/h so bit exciting from that point of view. Anyway, I knew exactly where I was going, having been there with Jamie, week or so ago. First took a spin through new part of city to give Cora Lee a bit of an overview of place. We would have parked to wander commercial centre here but having done that in Montpellier she wasn't all that keen, (or at least her credit cards weren't!), so after the circuit we made for a parking spot I'd happened upon with Jamie. More free, on street parking, but a block or two from battlements.

As you approach one sees the impressive walls, turrets, towers, etc., of the castle looming above you. Cora Lee and I used a set of stairs to reach entrance way which is almost exactly opposite, across village, to main entrance, where Tourist Info, (picked up a free map), is located, near railway station, washrooms, (no toilette paper or soap, but otherwise clean enough), and paid parking area. Jaimie and I followed a narrow, cobbled path to top. On way down, Cora Lee and I took the ramp like roadway, obviously for horses and carts, etc., originally. Easier on her tailbone, rather than stairs. [She is still sore but nothing like first few weeks in Italy!]

We spent a couple of hours wandering around and give Coriandre a very good idea of walled city. Access to site is free, except to the Château, but you don't really need to go inside this complex anyway, given time and what you see there. Interesting but not essential, other than walking along battlement walls. By chance, rather than with malice of forethought, Jamie and I took a steep staircase which allowed us access to the walkways which run atop the outer walls. So doing we didn't have to pay €8.50 fee! Here we enjoyed fantastic views of both surrounding landscape/countryside and interior of walled city.

Once we'd meandered a bit I took her to staircase in question but this time there was a chap "guarding" the entranceway and he directed us back towards the Château. Since Cora Lee is not happy with heights she wasn't fussed about not having to climb some pretty steep stairways, at times, [She found approach to Tintagel nerve-wracking!], so made for the Basilique des Saints Nazare er Celse. Most impressive stained glass and we were fortunate enough to be there when three young men sang a number of Russian Orthodox hymns. Their voices and the acoustics were phenomenal.


Outside, I was dispatched to do whatever I wished to do so The Power Shopper could be free to browse at will. We met an hour or so later and made our way back to the car. This time we took the slower route home through the pretty villages of Olonzac and Capestang, waiting at times for the tractors hauling grapes to be crushed. These secondary roads are excellent and it is a much more interesting drive.

Yesterday we drove to Montagnac, about half an hour away and enjoyed one of the most remarkable tastings we've ever experienced. By chance, I knew about Château Paul Mas from an on-line newsletter put out by Marquis Wines, a shop we frequent in Vancouver. In one of the recent issues, (I read it shortly after I arrived in Neffiès, actually), a 2011 Paul Mas 'Vignes de Nicole' Chardonnay Viognier was mentioned and I thought it might be fun to see what sort of winery, (size, etc.), it was and simply because it was so close by.

Lovely building and very tasteful and attractive tasting room. Only a few other people there and for most of our stay it was just Cora Lee and myself. What "shocked" me was that one literally chooses which wines one wishes to taste from the bottles arrayed on display racks around the room. It is almost like being a kid in a candy store. Where does one start when given so much choice? ANd believe me there was plenty to choose from! I think we probably could have tasted, had we the capacity, all afternoon. We ended up choosing two whites and six reds and for each selection the very friendly young woman, Anna, conducting the tasting, would go into the storeroom to select bottle in question, open it and pour the wine. Part of the time we spent chatting with a German couple, on holiday, like ourselves. Their English was very good so we had lots to talk about.

Charge for tasting is €5 for eight wines but waived if one purchases three bottles. I knew this was a laugh and we ended up buying a case of twelve! Prices, once again, were absolutely ridiculous, given magnificent quality of wine. Most of bottles we selected were between €7-€10 and I "splurged" on one for €15/£12.58/$20.90! Almost glad I'd not done any other tasting at other domaines while here as I'd never leave, or be able to leave!

Back home to have quick showers and change of clothes as we had dinner reservations at Les Gouteilles, a tiny restaurant just up our street. We had a wonderful meal, two types of lamb for Cora Lee and Peter Rabbit's French cousin for me! Both were superb and we made a reservation for tonight, our last evening here!

Hope Madcap has taken to badminton. Must away on my last ride here in Neffiès. Have a severe time constraint as we have luncheon reservations at 1:00 pm at L'Auberge du Presbytère in Vailhan. Fondestos to you both from Cora Lee. Cheers, Patrizzio!
Pics: Absinthe makes the heart grow fonder! Paul Mas; dinner at Les Gouteilles and new watch I bought for Cora Lee in Carcassonne, after a couple of bottles of aforementioned Absinthe!

Up at 7:15 am to have a java and scribe until 10:30 am then for a ride, last ride of time here in Neffiès:

http://connect.garmin.com/activity/382143062#.UkYALytNxfY.email

Sir Terence and Company after L'Auberge, fabulous luncheon, amuse bouche anchovie in something sublime; two lambs, Patrizzio, porc Coriandre, cheese platter, wild black rice/risotto appi, CL, quail eggs and meat for me

T en C Verm/Rouss, three malts and then dinner at Les Gout 2011 Mas des Ma, Terrasses de Larzac, Syrah 40%, Mouvèdre 35%, Carignan 20%, Grenache 5%, fabulo! Beef cheeks, pulled, Cora Lee, veal for me with rabbit pate, Cl, salmon courgette pour moi, five cheeses and creme caramel for dessert. House wine, 1/2 carafe to make everything blend in

Home to finish packing!

Hello Travelling Road Show People!

Trust you are safely ensconced with Rosemary and Andre by now! Please pass along best wishes. Let's try to wait until we hook up before going  shopping for groceries as we have quite a few staples. Fondestos to one and all from Cora Lee. Cheers, Patrizzio!


We should be at Andre's in two hours. Took 2 hours to get out of Paris this morning. After we get to Agen we can go shopping for grocery's. Wayne

For those of you not in the south of France -- see you Sunday. G
from Misha --  in case my tel number (cell) 
 
Dear Patrick
Cab booked for 5am 19th Oct to Gatwick £65 with mhb station cabs 02089594444 . Just off for girls night out so will catch up later x
 
I would love to meet him VL 
 
I'd be interested too. Presumably [plug your eyes, Pat] we could invite various members of the Sisterhood? Also, presumably there would be an honorarium of some sort - estimated costs? 8^) cheers, Mark
 
Mark,
There is no charge. And I think it would be a good opportunity for the sisterhood to join us - an armistice of sorts - AND of course they would provide us with the food and drink? G 
 
George - the man with the great ideas : ) VL 
  

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