Sunday 13 October 2013

Massif Central Blues: Saturday, October 12th

A profound unmitigated loneliness is the only truth of life. -R.K. Narayan, writer (1906-2001)


In the snow at 3000 ft near Langogue. Temp 1 degree C.
A bit of a surprise on way to Chabeuil

Life has continued to be tea-total sober, church-mouse quiet and penny-pinching parsimonious, at least for Cora Lee! However, for my part, since we bade goodbye to Flamin'/Sarge, Peggster/Mr Fixit, in Agen, last Saturday, October 12th, in Agen, where we left the Good Ship Lollypop, aka, The Damazan, I have been enveloped in a non-stop whirlwind round of sightseeing, wine tasting and just general enjoyment of the mean streets of village, town and city in this fabulous country and countryside.  

We continued to enjoy ourselves after leaving canal barge friends on October 12th. We rented another car in Agen to drive to Valance, (across the Massif Central where we had snow!), to stay for three nights with friends, Rosemary and Andre. Even had a chance for a day of wine tasting in Châteauneuf-du-Pape as village is only about an hour and a half south of Chabeuil, tiny village near Valence where these friends actually live. 
Airport Shuttle · Airport terminal · Toulouse


Patrick James Dunn Happy Medterranean travels!
 
Was rather a whirlwind of activity after we left the canal barge, a week ago this past Saturday. Had arranged to rent a car in Agen so we loaded all our baggage, my bike and two cases of wine into our sporty diesel Peugeot 208, and took off for Valance, at about 9:45 am, going cross-country negotiating the stunning Massif Central, via Cahors, (another notable wine region), and Rodez. On towards Mende and stopped here for fuel. Young woman at cash was shivering and told me it was going to snow. I thought that she meant that it felt like it was going to snow. Just out of Mende we encountered the first flakes! Fortunately none sticking to the road as this is incredibly mountainous terrain and I can't imagine having to drive it under blizzard conditions. Like the Sea to Sky, (road is very good here as well, although only one lane each way, except for passing lanes), in a snowstorm, I would think. Anyway, snow keep coming down, reasonably heavily at times, all the way to and past Langogne.


Once we started thrilling descent, flanked by spectacular cliffs and outcroppings of limestone, granite and slate, above, to our left, sheer drops but for unbelievable stone walls that ran for probably 30 km, to our right, (Cora Lee was not happy when I'd pretend to take my hands off the steering whee around some of the hairpin turns!), if not more, towards Thueyts and then Ucel, temperature climbed and we left snow behind. More roller-coaster rides to Privas and then as we entered Livron-sur-Drôme we left the mountains behind and were in the Rhône Valley, crossing this mighty river and making for Chabeuil, just outside Valence.

Very, very pleased to have decided to drive this way we did as if we'd back-tracked on freeway it would have been about three hours shorter, (Took us about 8 hours.), but we'd not have seen such an incredible part of the middle of southern France with its remarkable mountains and plateaux, covering, apparently 15 percent of the country.



Rosemary and Andre were expecting us for dinner so they welcomed us in and after we'd caught up a bit, I unloaded car while Cora Lee continued to visit. Andre is a fabulous cook and so we enjoyed a delicious cassoulet, (most, if not all the vegetable are form his garden!), with plenty of wine from our muleage stash. Even though it had been a long day, particularly for us, we managed to stay up until close to midnight. Conversation was aided by malt, Lads, and more wine, white for Rosemary, red for Coriandre. Thanked our hosts for their hospitality just before the witching hour and made for our bedroom, on ground floor, to sleep deeply on comfortable double bed, a luxury, sheer luxury, after the bunks aboard Damazan! 

In Toulouse after a great two weeks on the Canal Garonne. headed to Greece for a five day cruise.at ibis Styles Toulouse Gare Centre Matabiau

Hotel · Train Station · Toulouse, France

Dear Sir Pat and Lady  Corinne. Thanks for your newsy email. Glad all is well on Canal du Midi. We loved the photos  of the gastronomie as much as the previous ones of us on bikes and me lying down! Well done on your mamouth marathon on your bike. Is that your record?Work has been very busy,many underground shifts particularly this week. So we will be looking forward to seeing you both on friday and have a rest that evening! Singing has gone well both in church and Bach Choir concert in St Pauls. Pat was thrilled with my singing of Sea Fever which you heard in Neffies!All our friends and colleagues were also very pleased.My chest was puffed out like Gerald Bartley Bruce! Must stop as I have to go to a concert. Fondestos. Sir James and Lady Patricia.

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