Wednesday 16 October 2013

13, Rue Quincampoix Blues: Wednesday, October 16th

Every saint has a past and every sinner a future. -Oscar Wilde, writer (1854-1900) 


Greetings from Paris, Jean and John!

Thanks for the lovely card! Trust your Thanksgiving was as wonderful as ours. Cora Lee roasted two Guinea Fowls as turkey isn't available, typically, here in France. Butternut squash from Andre's garden, tomatoe/basil, (again, all from Andre's garden), and fresh Mozzarella salad. Washed down with bottles of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, both red and white, we'd picked up earlier on Monday when visiting village, about an hour and a half away. Arrived in Paris yesterday afternoon. Had a terrific meal at La Robe et Le Palais, a restaurant we stumbled upon in 2010 with Flamin' and Sarge, last night. Off to wander the streets of this incredible city today then, via Eurostar, to London tomorrow. Back to Vancouver on Saturday! Love to you both from Cora Lee. Cheers, Patrizzio!


Michele Darrow-Sutherland: Arriving in the beautiful city of Rhodes. Patrick James Dunn Peggster always gets her Men! Patrizzio always gets his Babes! Rebecca, our delightful landlady.
Greetings from Paris Goils!

Trust you and the Birthday Boy and his trusty sidekick, Kemosabe Kindle Paperwhite, are all well. Before we ended up in stir, spent a wonderful Thanksgiving in Chabeuil, near Valence with close friends, Rosemary and Andre. Love to you both, and Xavierino, of course from Doting Nana! Cheers, Poppa "We Don't Need No Stinkin' Ball and Chain" San!

Pics: Thanksgiving table and Andre's dried chili peppers, Nana's Martha Stewart decorations; farewell to Andre and Rosemary; 13, Ruequincampoix, literally just around the corner from the Pompidou Centre, with Rebecca, our lovely Iranian landlady and courtyard below; some shots of the streets in our neighbourhood; dinner last night and walk back to apartment, (Metro station, Châtelet, is one we stopped at, from Gare du Lyon, after we'd arrived), for Absinthe, me, another part bottle of 2011 Château de la Liquière, Faugères, 14.5%, for Nana! Had one before going out for dinner. Need to lighten my backpack for tomorrow's journey to London!

Hello Chabeuil!

Trust you are both well and things are proceeding smoothly with closing up. Just a quick note to thank you both for the more than hospitable, most enjoyable stay, not to mention kind storage! Arrived in Paris yesterday afternoon although almost didn't. We were at Valence Ville instead of Valence TGV! Had to catch a cab and fortunately train was fifteen minutes late!


Had a terrific meal at La Robe et Le Palais, a restaurant we stumbled upon in 2010 with Flamin' and Sarge, last night. Off to wander the streets of this incredible city today then, via Eurostar, to London tomorrow. Back to Vancouver on Saturday! Love to you both from Cora Lee! Cheers, Patrizzio!


Pics: Dinner last night and walk back to apartment; Metro station, Châtelet, is one we stopped at, from Gare du Lyon, after we'd arrived, and survived being crushed by the automatic gates track-side. We saw two women caught in theses unforgiving doors once train was about to leave. One was knocked back violently, the other was nastily sandwiched and from what we observed had obviouslyhurt her arm/shoulder!

Wayne Connors and I made our singing debut at the 25,000 seat Stadium in ancient Ephesus. Our rendition of "Sam Hall" was met with rousing applause!!
  • Wayne Sutherland For once I was happy that I was tone death and that none of my other friends were with us.
  • Patrick James Dunn Being tone deaf myself, I can appreciate your embarrassment! You probably needed a glug of this terrific wine from Gigondas!
     Hello Cruise Ship People!

Trust everyone is well. Pics show that you are! Lovely time in Chabeuill. Love to you four from Cora Lee! Cheers, Patrizzio!


 Hello Rebecca!

Trust you are well. Just a  quick note to say how much we have enjoyed  staying in your apartment! We spent a lovely day today, in spite of the rain, and are so pleased to have decided to come to Paris, if only for a few days.

We will see you at 8:10 am tomorrow morning. Thanks and Cheers, Patrizzio!

Pics: Your warm welcome this past Tuesday; wonderful exhibit at Mona Bismarck American Center this afternoon; dinner tonight at a Le Bistro du Perigord, 71 Rue Saint-Jacques, simply delicious food! Recommend it most highly, especially the Guinea Fowl with horseradish sauce!


Two weeks ago, Lake Merritt had its FIRST river otter sighting reported!
Randy Gorringe, a rower with the Lake Merritt Rowing Club, spotted a river otter resti...See more




  • Patrick James Dunn Greetings from the banks of the Seine!

    David Kessler They don't look that different, do they? What's that tall thing in the background?

    Great sleep after the long, full, exciting day and we didn't get up until about 8:00 am. Tasty breakfast of yougurt, fruit and a boiled egg or two. Sat out around until about 10:00 am, then to wander the banks of the Seine, going towards the Eiffel Tower. Wanted to take in Yousuf Karsh: Icons of the Twentieth Century, at the Mona Bismarck American Center, 34 Av. de New York, as we'd seen it advertised on a number of Metro billboard posters day we arrived. What sheer, magical delight to walk along Quai François-Mitterand, et al the other blvds it bleeds into, passing the Louvre, the Tuileries, the Orangerie, the Obélisque with its golden tip glinting in the weak sun. Day was quite overcast and we had drizzle at times. Next the magnificently ornate Pont Alexandre III joins the Left Bank to lead to Les Invalides and the Musée d'Orsay, (the former Gare d'Orsay, a Beaux-Arts railway station, as you probably know), the Eiffel Tour loomed ever closer, rising majestically, if ethereally, through the mist.

    [Hi Pat,
    Good to hear from you! Life is obviously treating you well. You know, you are the only librarian from this place that anyone still talks about- well, fondly anyways.
    All the gang at ILL says hello. My daughter is now almost 17 and Katherine and I will be retiring in about 5 years. Looking forward to following in your footsteps. Best, Bob]




    I stopped here to snap a few more pictures and shortly thereafter I was approached by a woman I'd seen walking along the sidewalk, ahead of us, for last few blocks. I assumed she was a fellow tourist and when she came up to me I expected her to ask for directions or some such. In fact she had a fairly large weding band in her hand and gave it to me saying something like, "This brings Good Luck." I was a tad discombobulated at this point, imagining she would have wanted to know if I had lost the ring. My next thought was that she meant that since it didn't belong to her it would bring her "Good Luck" to give it to a stranger. Looked reasonably valuable so I thought I might as well take it since she was offering. A few minutes later I realized that the whole thing was probably a scam as she returned holding out her hand, asking for money. I gave her €2 which didn't seem to please her much but I wasn't prepared to offer her more and she stalked off.


    Cora Lee was admiring the many canal barges moored along the Seine here, and elsewhere for that matter, so that she wasn't aware of my encounter with the Gypsy woman. Thought that I'd save story for lunch so I joined her near the stone wall which runs the course of the sidewalks here and we gawked at the incredible floating dwellings that have been created atop the hulls. From what we saw, Peeping Tom/Thomasina that we unabashedly were, many included outside, rooftop terraces, complete with deck furniture, bbq's, large potted plants/trees and spacious interiors. On one we saw a cat stretching beside its owner as he worked on his computer in a very modern, nicely appointed kitchen, granite counter tops and all. One monster barge even had a small car on one of its decks, together with what looked like a winch and associated apparatus to move it ashore. We gathered that some/many of them might be available to rent and it turns out that since the "Seine crosses the 16th, 17th, 8th, 1st, 6th, 4th, 5th, 13th and 12th arrondissements a number of lucky and adventurous, (I would add "wealthy"), people have made their homes in anchored vessels on the river. In all there are about 1,000 houseboats in Paris, their postal addresses are written on the boats!
     

    The most common kind of Paris houseboat is the peniche or barge. This is a flat bottomed vessel specifically designed for narrow canals or rivers. The peniche are not necessarily cramped living spaces as you might have imagined a boat to be, in fact a peniche can cover 220m² and include terraces. Some peniche include more than one bedroom, a living space, bathrooms and even individual studio "apartments". A huge luxury peniche of this kind can cost up to €980,000. Or you could have a more modest 40 meter long, 176m² peniche moored near the Eiffel Tower!

    There are cheaper options, smaller peniche, older ones, Paris houseboat hotels and barges for rent. You can even stay in an historic Peniche that was build 100 years ago, or buy an old houseboat and spend your time renovating it. These vintage barges have been refurnished and restored to their former glory and you will still feel the style and luxury with all the modern conveniences."


    After about an hour and a half, and drooling with envy at the Lives of the Rich and famous, Cora Lee wanted to stop for a cup of tea so we found a typical brasserie where we seated ourselves outside and ordered, a java for me and a glass of red, along with her tea, for Cora Lee. Shortly after our our drinks arrived two couples sat a few chairs down from us. The women moved even closer to us while the men took a table in the row closer to the street, the better to smoke. As they laughed at the the separation I leaned over and applauded: "Vive la Différence!" This started us talking to one another and we discovered that they were all doctors, from Turkey. Most convivial group and before long the women were showing us cell phone pictures of their gorgeous, grown children, wedding snaps and the like. They were en route to Brussels to visit one of the sons. We told them we were headed for Karsh exhibit but they were finished with culture by then and were making for The Galeries Lafayette. (Secretly, Cora Lee wanted to join them, I know!) On parting warmly we exchanged cards and they insisted we stay with them when next in Istanbul/Smyrna/Izmir. Be wonderful to take them up on what I feel was a genuine offer as can only imagine privileged life they probably lead, as professionals in Turkey.



    Waving goodbye, we found the Mona Bismarck American Center a few minutes later. We were almost the only people in the gallery as it was the first day of the public exhibition and late morning. In fact, we went through twice in the sense that we retraced our steps back through each of the three galleries to revisit each of these truly remarkable portraits. The juxtaposition/groupings of the images, (politicians, artists, photographers, writers, actors featuring approximately 70 of the photographer’s most striking portraits of French and American dignitaries and luminaries, juxtaposing Frank Lloyd Wright with Le Corbusier, for example, and Charles de Gaulle with Dwight Eisenhower), alone was mesmerizing. 

    Wished one of our professional photographer friends could have been along as with his keen eye and expertise he could have provided even greater technical insight. Of course, the prints speak directly, and powerfully, dynamically so, without the need for mediation of any kind but it never hurts to know more about the craft involved. In a very real sense, it was time travel to see these iconic images as many/most of them have been burned into our collective unconscious, perhaps even define the individual and their times for the viewer, so able was Karsh able to capture the essence of his subjects. From the exhibition brochure:



    The remarkable artistic career of Yousuf Karsh was matched only by the extraordinary lives of cultural, political, artistic and intellectual figures that he photographed. Organized by Jerry Fielder, Curator and Director of the Estate of Yousuf Karsh, uniquely, for this exhibition celebrates Karsh’s exceptional contribution to shaping personal and historical memory throughout the twentieth century. Original photographs of American and French luminaries will be presented alongside archival material from the dozens of Life and Paris-Match covers that Karsh captured, marking the transformation of his intimate portraits into public icons.

    After thrilling to these mesmerizing images, we crossed over to the Left Bank on the Pont de l'Alma and followed Rue de l"Université, as Cora Lee was bound and determined to shop somewhere in Saint Germain! I had never walked in this part of the city so I was entranced by everything we came across, a brave new world for bumpkin me! Both of us were beginning to feel a bit peckish as it was around 1:30 pm or so. We decided upon a small bistro, near the American University of Paris and we certainly picked a great spot. Wonderfully friendly, efficient service and food was more than delicious. I had a flavourful lamb cassoulet while Cora Lee opted for one of seafood. A very, very tasty Côtes du Rhône and all was well with the world. Over our last glass of the wonderfully full-bodied red, I produced the gold ring and proposed to Cora Lee. I didn't actually get down on one knee to ask for her hand in re-marriage but I insisted she answer "Yea or Nay" befoer I told her how he ring came into my possession. As of this writing it has not turned green so perhaps I'm in possession of an extremely valuable piece of jewellery. Will have to have it assessed at some point if it continues to retain its patina!


    Thanking our waitress and the chef, we paid our ridiculously inexpensive bill and towards Les Invalides, passing the The Palais Bourbon, the seat of the Assemblée nationale with its colourful blue uniformed, machine gun armed guard. In the park near Les Invalides we happened upon a large open air art exhibition. Must have been over a hundred small booths/kiosks where artists, of all sorts, painters in the main, displayed their various works. Bit like an opening night as many offered wine and a few nibbles. Spent over an hour perusing the fantastic array of mediums and motifs. Must say that I was not overly taken with much that I saw but I was delighted to see the certainly incredible, rather fantastic subject matter that occupied what seemed to me the wild imaginations of the individuals who produced the small sculptures or photographs or block prints or delicate fabrics or jewellery on display.  Unfortunately, it was raining very heavily at the time so I think attendance was not what organizers had hoped for. Still, we were quite taken with the opportunity to see some of what the current art scene was producing. 



    After sheltering from the rain for the time we did, sky lightened and Cora Lee was determined to make for Moderne St. Germain. I was more interested in returning to our apartment as I was certainly not keen on traipsing from store to boutique to yet another shoe shop. We parted company on Bd Saint-Michel and took Metro from Cluny-La Sorbonne, I believe, back to Châtelet and then but a short walk to 13, Rue Quincampoix. I spent a couple of hours answering email and enjoying a java before stepping out to buy a few sandwich fixings for next day's Eurostar trip to London. Cora Lee was back by the time I returned. She had walked all the way in her search for the poifect purse! Hadn't found anything much that she desired so I offered that perhaps she would buy dinner! More glares so I thought I'd better open the 2010 Le Cisso, Nizas,14.5%, I had in reserve, for just such a mollification!


     After we'd showered and changed we strolled over Pont Notre Dame, the Cathedral illuminated against the misty night sky, along Rue Saint-Jacques, to wander away from the endless restaurants catering to unimaginative tourists to eventually stumble upon Le Bistro du Perigord, 71 Rue Saint-Jacques, where we enjoyed another remarkable and remarkably inexpensive meal. Funnily enough, discovered, upon talking with one of owners, that cuisine is from a region not all that far from where we had been on the canal barge and we had probably passed through the town/village on our way to Cahors after leaving Agen. Recommend it most highly, especially the Guinea Fowl with horseradish sauce!



    Leisurely stroll back to our apartmento, enjoying the clear, cool night air and the city's lights. Fairly quiet streets so it was lovely way to end a truly fascinating day. Straight to bed once I'd brushed and flossed. I had done most of my packing, such as it was, before we'd gone out for dinner but wanted to be up early as we had to be ready for taxi at 8:15 am.  Wanted to make my sandwiches and send a few messages before hauling our suitcases down the narrow stairs so Cora Lee could wait in the courtyard while Rebecca took a look at the apartment to make sure we hadn't smashed all the wine glasses or stolen the towels!

    Hello Dear Doctor Friends!

    Trust everyone is well, if poorer, after shopping at The Galeries Lafayette! Just a  quick note to say how much we enjoyed  meeting you four yesterday. We spent a lovely day, after we said goodbye, in spite of the rain, and are so pleased to have decided to come to Paris, if only for a few days.

    We trust we will see you in Istanbul in the not too, too distant future. Fond regards and best wishes from Corinne and Patrick. Travel safely. Bon Voyage. Cheers, Patrizzio!

    Pics: Our lovely landlady, Rebecca; wonderful exhibit at Mona Bismarck American Center yesterday afternoon; dinner last at a Le Bistro du Perigord, 71 Rue Saint-Jacques, simply delicious food! Recommend it most highly, especially the Guinea Fowl with horseradish sauce! The Four Turkish Doctors and One Canadian Librarian!

    PS: I have taken the liberty of providing Google translations, in case it is easier for you to read the message!

    Not: Eğer mesajı okumak için daha kolay olduğu durumda ben, Google çeviri sağlama özgürlük almış!

    PS: j'ai pris la liberté de fournir des traductions Google, dans le cas où il est plus facile pour vous de lire le message!

    Bonjour cher docteur amis!

    Chacun de confiance est bien, si pauvre, après le shopping aux Galeries Lafayette! Juste un petit mot rapide pour vous dire combien nous avons apprécié vous rencontrer quatre hier. Nous avons passé une belle journée, après avoir dit au revoir, en dépit de la pluie, et nous sommes donc heureux d'avoir décidé de venir à Paris, si ce n'est que pour quelques jours.

    Nous espérons que nous allons vous voir à Istanbul dans le pas trop, avenir trop lointain. Concerne Fond et meilleurs vœux de Corinne et Patrick. Voyage en toute sécurité. Bon Voyage. Cheers, Patrizzio!

    Photos: Notre belle hôtesse, Rebecca; merveilleuse exposition à Mona Bismarck American Center hier après-midi, dîner dernier à Le Bistro du Périgord, 71 Rue Saint-Jacques, tout simplement délicieux! Recommander le plus fortement, en particulier la Guinée Fowl avec sauce au raifort! Les quatre médecins turcs et un bibliothécaire canadien!

    Sevgili Doktor Arkadaşlar Merhaba!

    Güven herkes Galeries Lafayette alışveriş sonra, iyi ise kötüdür! Dört dün toplantı zevk ne kadar söylemek Sadece hızlı bir notu. Biz yağmura rağmen, veda sonra, güzel bir gün geçirdim ve bu yüzden birkaç gün yalnızca, Paris'e gelmeye karar için mutluyuz.

    Biz, çok uzak bir gelecekte değil çok İstanbul'da göreceksiniz güveniyorum. Fond ilgili ve Corinne ve Patrick en iyi dilek. Güvenli seyahat. Bon Voyage. Cheers, Patrizzio!

    Resimler: Bizim güzel ev sahibesi, Rebecca; Mona Bismarck Amerikan Merkezi'nde harika sergi dün öğleden sonra, akşam yemeği Le Bistro du Perigord, 71 Rue Saint-Jacques, sadece lezzetli yemek geçen! Horseradish sos ile özellikle Guinea Fowl, en çok tavsiye!Dört Türk Doktorlar ve Bir Kanada Kütüphaneci!


    Hello! It's that time of year again...my company, Harobed Designs, is gearing up for the fall and holiday season with a series of craft and similar shows. The first one is October 19 and 20, as part of theBloorcourt/Dovercourt Village Arts & Crafts Studio Tour.

    Creative Spirit Art Centre has graciously allowed us to offer our one-of-a-kind wearable art vests for sale at its location, 999 Dovercourt Rd. just north of Hallam. Full details - including a map of all participating locations and hours - can be found on our blog at:

    http://inside-outstyleanddesign.blogspot.com

    Alternatively, if you Google Harobed Designs Facebook, it will take you to the same info on our Facebook page. Come on out and enjoy! Deborah



     






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