Wednesday 7 August 2013

Blackwater Blues: Wednesday, August 7th

We must not be frightened nor cajoled into accepting evil as deliverance from evil. We must go on struggling to be human, though monsters of abstractions police and threaten us. -Robert Hayden, poet and educator (1913-1980) 


Hi Gudrun, Just wanted to touch base. Our friend Jamie is leaving on Friday so we are free on the weekend. Also wanted to ask if there is a place in Turo that you use for pedicures? Went to St. Agnes yesterday to poke around, off to Tintagel today for a look see.Cheers, Corinne

Hi Corinne and Patrick,

Thanks for your email.  We have been discussing list of places to go and here are some choices for you to do with us over the weekend:-

St. Ives (very busy) where Stephen comes from
Lost Gardens of Heligan - St Austell way
St. Mawes (via the King Harry Ferry by Trelissick Gardens)
Lizard Peninsula (most southerly point in England).

We thought one of the above for Saturday and we would have lunch out somewhere.  If you have any other ideas just let us know.

We also wondered whether you would be interested in going to the Camel Valley Vineyard next Thursday (15th) for a tour at either 2.30 or 5.00 pm. Have a look at the Camel Valley site (www.camelvalley.com) to see what you think.  We could always fit in a trip to Padstow beforehand and maybe some cycling for the boys.

Regarding your query as to a pedicure I would suggest Hendra (www.hendrahairandbeauty.co.uk) in Truro.  I go there for my hair.

If you want a girlie day out any time Corinne just let me know.
Also would you be available to come for some supper on Sunday (11th).
Hope you enjoyed Tintagel on this beautiful Cornish summer day. 
Best wishes Gudrun and Stephen


Hello all at Sydney House! Thanks for your email which I will read in detail shortly.. Thought I had better get a short email off to let you know your apartment is still standing and we are now settled into the very comfortable dwelling! Flight over was wonderfully smooth and no turbulence. I even managed a couple of hours sleep (with the aid of a pill!) arrived in a very hot Vancouver before schedule but Krissy and Mark had just arrived so the timing was perfect. We drove back to GI to drop off the cases and Krissy received a call from Chloe saying that she had to do the washing of bedding etc at the loft since the water had been cut off the previous day so would be over later with the stuff. Maybe something to do with the relaying of the paths outside your building. We then drove back to Krissy and Marks to see the dog then wandered up to main to get a beer and a bite to eat. After catching up with all the news they offered to drive us back to GI but we insisted on walking since we had been sitting on an aircraft for 9 hours! Very pleasant walk back along the waterfront and into our new home! Chloe had been around and made up the bed for us, bless her, and left a note with her contact details. Krissy insisted I make her an Indian prawn curry tonight for dinner which I have just done. Meeting them for a beer on GI in 20 minutes.

We will spend the next couple of days sorting out our clothes and getting ourselves familiar with the surroundings. Our friends from Delta have emailed us to contact them ASAP so that they can organise a few days out on the boat while the weather is good.

Gayle has put up the umbrella on the terrace and laid the table for dinner so, as you can see, we have settled in nicely and may decide to become squatters! Will be in touch Cheers Derek


Hi Derek and Gayle!

Very pleased to learn that all went well with flight and re-entry! Glad Krissy is already making demands on you to catch up for not being able to do so for a bit! In fact, I talked to Chloë last night, (2:00pm your time so she was at work), and she related some of the details, (not intemperate beer consumption, however!), you describe. Glad the weather is so grand and do hope you are able to take full advantage of it as far as going boating with your friends and using patio. Apparently, according to Islay Inn Spy,  the Big Yellow Fence has been removed but path is still not  accessible.

We have also been enjoying some very sunny weather here, as I mentioned in last missive. Same, or even better when we drove to Tintagel. By the time we were organized: Spudnik coddled, brushed and fed; Jamie watered and fed, (Glad I bought the giant sized box of Wetabix!); Patrizzio sandwiches made with Gayle's rapidly diminishing loaf and Cora Lee showered, painted and bejeweled, it was about 11:30am. I had looked up possible route the night before and knew it would be a fairly straightforward ride. In fact, it went very well and easily, roads busy but nothing to cause any delays at all. As you will know, we followed A30 and A39 for most of the way and then a series of much smaller secondary A and B roads right into Tintagel itself, arriving just a shade more than an hour later.

Jamie has stayed at the Camelot a number of times before so he knew where to go once we entered village and we drove right through town to park in relatively empty lot in front of hotel. First off we took advantage of the Gentlemens/Ladies Cloak Rooms and then the stunningly beautiful, simply spectacular views afforded from the hotel patio before setting off.  We strolled back through the village, quite busy with throngs of pesky tourists, (unlike ourselves, locals that we are!), bus loads of obnoxious day trippers, etc., to the footpath leading to Tintagel Castle itself, noting the two Land Rovers shuttling people to and from entrance to the complex at the bottom of the quite steep hill. After buying our Concession tickets, (£5.30, saved 50P!), we watched a short, (7 minutes), film which was, as far as I was concerned, quite informative, quite succinctly unraveling the myth of King Arthur and how it came to become such a potent force in the collective unconscious of European/Western civilization.

Must say that I was quite overwhelmed with the magnificent cliffs and rocky coves which surround the headlands on which the magnificent ruined castle and other dwelling remnants are to be found. Cora Lee was not altogether happy about the initial walkway overlooking the small beach, filled with sun-bathers and many swimmers, in front of Merlin's Cave, which leads to the bridge connecting the mainland side to the island and its considerable promontory reaching out into the ocean. And she had not even started to climb the rather daunting, considerable steps clinging to the rock face.

As I assume you probably know, one has to stop, at times, to allow those descending to pass on narrow corners or at points where the rough cliff face callously insists itself into the rocky, staircase. Bit of a strenuous haul to the top and I was glad to use the continuous handrail to help me up and along. Once through the 19th Century gateway which guards the top the breath-taking, vistas, stretching up and down the coast than compensate the acrophobic.

I reached the "summit" before my companions and knew it likely that we would not remain together for rest of the time on top as everyone has a pace and an interest of their own to follow. Once Cora Lee and Jamie had reached base camp I told them I would meet them back at the café, at some point. (Cora Lee had rejected the idea of sandwiches when I was making them earlier that morning and insisted that she was going to have lunch somewhere!) Waving goodbye and cautioning them to be careful, (like the many parents shepherding small children were heard to be doing), I set off to explore the wealth of different levels and views afforded. 

Must say that this site, aside from the fact that it really is one of the most wondrous places I have ever visited, felt almost intimate, in spite of its magnitude and the large number of people visiting. The huge expanses of undulating or cropped grass and smooth, easily negotiated stone surfaces dissipated the crowds so that one encountered but small groups of people or families picinicing or lovers entwined on a monolith jutting out over the sea, a slight gust of wind ruffling the young woman's summer dress to expose a flash of scarlet underwear, (but who was looking, Dear Reader!), even an individual meditating upon the vastness of the ocean, her Om mantra but barely audible as I passed by, as one wandered from vantage point to vantage point, from one set of foundations melting back into the rock on which they had been constructed who knows how many years/millennia ago, to heart-stopping, vertigo-inducing yet deliciously adrenalin-pumping, euphoria-flooding cliff edges, dropping precipitously to the angry, menacing, wave crashed rocks beckoning maliciously below.

In fact, one of the most exciting and refreshing aspects of this English Heritage site is that it has not been reduced to a fenced compound, (other than the very securely enclosed stairways), so that one really needs to use common sense and keep one's wits about oneself. The only restraints that exist are quite small, unobtrusive signs which read, "Danger Cliffs", and show an unlucky, probably doomed stick figure falling off a stylized rock! At one stage I started chatting with a fellow visitor, near a particularly sheer drop, and he told me that four people had fallen to their deaths, somewhere on the site, a few days before! He didn't know the details of the accident but assumed it might well have had something to do with erosion as this part of the coast had had considerable amounts of rain over last week or so. Later, when I recounted my conversation, Cora Lee, in her own inimitable way, cynically observed that the Tourist Bureau probably hadn't bruited this about. Beware, Dear Reader, Beware should you visit King Arthur's Camelot!

After I had covered pretty well most of this section of the island site, I went back down to the bridge to climb back up to the site opposite, on the headland, where
Richard, Earl of Cornwall, younger brother of Henry III, built his castle in the 1230s. This is a much smaller site but interesting nonetheless. The stairs leading to the top are fairly demanding. One is often left staring at the next step above, so steep is the incline. I was reminded of parts of the Grouse Grind where such is the case. Fascinating to look back at the rolling hills, fields and village buildings which form the backdrop to this magical setting. Set in the midst of one particular view one can spot a wind turbine, an alien invader, A Connecticut Yankee in King Arthur's Court, but otherwise and idyllic setting, one not to be missed should one be fortunate enough to be able to visit.

Having enjoyed the heights I next descended to the beach and clambered over the boulders at the bottom of the pathway to enter the huge cave, known as Merlin's, to walk almost through to the other side. Didn't actually go right to the water's edge there as the natural stones were rather far apart here and fairly slippery. Retraced my steps and went back to the beach where I waded in up to my ankles. Water was refreshing although I'm not sure what swimming in it would have been like.

Made my way back to the café, (I had spotted Cora Lee's hat there when looking down earlier), where she and Jamie were just finishing their light lunch. I polished off the few bits of salad she didn't want and enjoyed the tasty dressing. Jamie bought an ice lolly and we made our way past the considerable queue of people waiting for the Land Rovers to ferry them back up the steep hill. Not an unpleasant walk although I could feel the muscles in my calves on the last section, the steepest part just before one reaches the village.

Cora Lee wanted to wander through the village so I suggested that I would walk back to fetch the car and meet later. We agreed upon a time, (about an hour later), and a place, (parking lot where I could turn stop without blocking traffic), and Jamie and I set off together as he wanted to show me parts of the hotel. En route we stopped at shop I had noticed earlier. It advertised itself as having a oy museum so I was curious to see if there were any Dinky Toys on display or for sale. As a child, in Cyprus, I had quite an extensive array of them, all army vehicles and I've always regretted that my aprents convinced me to sell them before we left for Canada, back in 1957.

Although there weren't any Dinky Toys in the attractive museum displays I was more than delighted to find a Centurion Tank and two 25-Pounder Field Guns for sale in another display case. Pretty pricey but I would have bought the tank, (£49), had it not had a battered gun barrel and treads that looked like they might fall apart. Settled for one of the 25-Pounders, (£27), as it was in almost mint condition and I knew it would be easier to carry back home by the time we were ready to fly to Vancouver. Tank, although a model, is quite heavy and I'm already dreading the trip back to Gatwick in October, Dear Reader!

Pleased with my find, we walked back to the hotel and Jamie took me through the lovely lounge area, (gorgeous furnishings and magnificent fireplaces), and elegant dining room with its blindingly white tablecloths, both rooms offering stunning views of the castle and coastline. He then treated me to a decidedly cappucino in the very nicely appointed bar. We chatted with two couples from San Jose while we sipped our java, (his an Americano), and the two owners, John Mappin and Ted Stourton, happened by. Jamie knew them from his previous visits and insisted on introducing me. I wasn't particularly keen to meet them as it was obvious that they were really only interested in paying guests. Furthermore, I really did not like any of the paintings, Ted's work, which were plastered everywhere. I had formed this opinion when I first saw them in the lounge and when I overheard John tell the Americans that the hotel was very privileged to have so much of the art of "the most famous living artist in England today", I almost spewed a mouthful of my tasty coffee onto the bar.

Furthermore, I happened to look up their names as I couldn't recall the spelling and I found the following entry: "
Camelot Castle Hotel in Tintagel, Cornwall is a run-down hotel with masses of negative press online. For most people it's a creepy place where the owners try to sell guests awful paintings, bad accommodation and Scientology." I didn't find the place creepy nor run-down but I'd not seen any of the rooms. For his part, Jamie had not been exposed to any crack-pot indoctrination but Ted had certainly put the hard sell on him to invest in his outrageously expensive, (and outrageously aweful), paintings.

Rather amused by this more or less Faulty Towers cast of characters we went to the car and then on to collect Coriandre. She had hoped, while window shopping and more, to find a shop where she could find some fish for supper but was not able to do so. We were on our way home about 5:00pm and enjoyed the late afternoon sunshine and the attractive countryside. On the way through Camelford we happened to drive past a Coop and we stopped to see what fare was to be had. Coramandel returned with chicken breasts as there wasn't a sardine in sight.

Home by 6:30pm I headed for Vacuum Land while Cora Lee watched Lewis and Jamie went for another cycle to Chacewater. Didn't sit down to dinner until just after 9:00pm, Jamie home a few minutes before. Coriandre had prepared cauliflower with cheese and sweet potatoes. The chicken was wonderful, succulent and spicy. I'd done another mixed salad, (lettuce, red cabbage, tomatoes and crumbled Feta), and the rest of the watermelon for dessert. A luscious Viñalba 2010 Cab, Malbec, Merlot, 14.5% and a quaff-able2102 Longue-Doc, 13.5% helped calm us down after our close call, just managing to avoid being kidnapped by the cultists at the Camelot Castle Hotel, to be indoctrinated into Kitsch.

A delightful, delightful end to a truly remarkable day of extraordinary sight-seeing, in more than the best sense of this word. Fondestos to you from Cora Lee, Spudnik's new best friend! Cheers, Patrizzio, Cornish Cyclist Extraordinaire!


Hi Gudrun, Just wanted to touch base. Our friend Jamie is leaving on Friday so we are free on the weekend. Also wanted to ask if there is a place in Turo that you use for pedicures? Went to St. Agnes yesterday to poke around, off to Tintagel today for a look see.Cheers, Corinne

Hi Corinne and Patrick,

Thanks for your email.  We have been discussing list of places to go and here are some choices for you to do with us over the weekend:-

St. Ives (very busy) where Stephen comes from
Lost Gardens of Heligan - St Austell way
St. Mawes (via the King Harry Ferry by Trelissick Gardens)
Lizard Peninsula (most southerly point in England).

We thought one of the above for Saturday and we would have lunch out somewhere.  If you have any other ideas just let us know.

We also wondered whether you would be interested in going to the Camel Valley Vineyard next Thursday (15th) for a tour at either 2.30 or 5.00 pm. Have a look at the Camel Valley site (www.camelvalley.com) to see what you think.  We could always fit in a trip to Padstow beforehand and maybe some cycling for the boys.

Regarding your query as to a pedicure I would suggest Hendra (www.hendrahairandbeauty.co.uk) in Truro.  I go there for my hair.

If you want a girlie day out any time Corinne just let me know.
Also would you be available to come for some supper on Sunday (11th).
Hope you enjoyed Tintagel on this beautiful Cornish summer day. 
Best wishes Gudrun and Stephen




If we can bail out the auto industry and Wall Street, surely we can find ways to address Detroit's problems that are fair and don't put the burden on workers who did not cause the problem and who have already suffered great salary loss and have made genuine sacrifices.

Bankruptcy is not the answer for Detroit. The solution to Detroit's fiscal problems should not be balanced on the backs of its workers and retirees.  

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