Hi Goils!
Yes, settling in quite nicely indeed! Yesterday didn't actually go out until close to 5:00 pm and then I wended my way into le centre de ville, such as it is, here in Neffiès, and did a bit of shopping at the one and only magasin, a veritable Wasteland for the Power Shoppers! Purchases, (cheese, wine and a bulb of garlic, what more does one need!), made I returned home to put things away and then took car to do a bit of exploring. Wanted to see where street in front of Beau Soleil led.
Followed it through first village, Fontès, and then turned around to head into Roujan to do a bit more shopping, fuzzy water and toothpaste. After I scoped out the main part of town, (Noticed Le Chat Noir and just had a message from Dennisovitch: "Don't forget the best place to have lunch is at le Chat Noir in nearby Roujan." Guess this was meant to be! Made a reservation for September 22nd when The Flying/Lying Karmazova somersaults into town!), I took a different route back to Neffiès just to see what could be seen. Saw a sign advertising virgin olive oil, (Have noticed many olive trees amidst vineyards.), so stopped in. Unfortunately, place was closed but neighbour assured me it would be open tomorrow.
Back home I refrigerated what needed to be refrigerated and then put the Navigator back together. Suited up and headed for Fontès. The first hill is such a gradual climb that I was more concerned about keeping a 20 K+ AVG than the work required, minimal after Perranporth, per esempio! Still, to be gliding between endless vineyards was more than enough and I kept shaking my head and pinching myself to remind my consciousness how incredibly fortunate I was to even be here, let alone to be cycling in such circumstances.
Once past Fontès I had to follow my nose and so I belted along, (slight downhill grade was
marvellous but I knew I'd have to pay the piper sooner or later), and before I knew it I was in Lézignan-la-Cèbe, not far from the outskirts of Pezenas. I'd not really appreciated how close I was staying to this town and was delighted to know I could probably cycle there over the next few days.
Traffic looked like it might be busier if I continued so I used the first roundabout I encountered to turn back towards home. Ride back wasn't nearly as arduous as I'd half-expected it to be so I had high hopes of doing a 20+ KPH AVG. By the time I was back in Lézignan-la-Cèbe sun had disappeared behind the low hills and I turned on my two trusty LED lights. Hardly any traffic but I needed illumination to keep on the road, more or less. Since I knew surface was almost without imperfection I felt pretty confident and pedaled ahead on a spoke and a prayer.
Hard to express what I experienced as it was almost dreamlike. Was completely dark, except when one or two oncoming cars literally blinded me with their high beams, and it was just the bats, swooping across the road to harvest the insects I'd been spitting out of my mouth for most of the ride and the plaintive cicadas calling to their mates, evoking such powerful memories of my childhood in Cyprus that I almost wept, and me. Quite something to be immersed in such silence, such utter peace and quiet. Almost made me regret the single malt I'd primed my camel pack with!
Ride stats:
http://connect.garmin.com/activity/370099667#.UiY4MZSQeF8.email
Home by about 9:15 am and pleased as punch. Have a much better idea about terrain now and know that 100 K+ is on the books if I can discipline myself not to enjoy myself so much! After getting things ready for dinner, (Made a green salad with the fairly strong chèvre to have with the butter beans and merguez sausage I prepared earlier this morning.), I took a shower and then sat down to feast and scribe. Could see the lights of Roujan winking at me from across the vineyards beyond living room balcony. Had opened a bottle of Celliers du Colombier, 2011 Picpoul de Pinet, 12.5%, a typical varietal here in Languedoc, to celebrate inaugural ride, and it went down exceptionally well with my peasant fare.
Think I'll go for a longish ride today, reasonably early to avoid the heat of the day and then drive into Pézenas to take alook around. Market there isn't until Saturday so won't hurt to have a better idea about parking, etc. Fondestos, Love and Cheers, Dad/Patrizzio
Pics: Beau Soleil and street outside then some shots of Neffiès; last two or road signs in Roujan taken close to outdoor patio of Le Chat Noir!
Hi Amber!
Trust you are well! Did you take over from Jocelyn Godolphin? Congratulations on your Headship! Bravo! Onward!!! Upward!!!
However, retirement is treating me rather well. Have been having a wonderful time ever since we left Vancouver on July 10th: London, Yorkshire, Lake District, Bath and then a month in Cornwall, Blackwater, near Truro for a month doing a house exchange with friends whose daughter worked with Chloë, our youngest, at the Granville island Brewery.
Cora Lee flew to Rome this past Monday for three weeks with The Sisterhood and their Secret Book Club. She joins me in Neffiès on September 22nd and then on the 28th we meet friends in Agen, about 120 K south of Bordeaux, for two weeks on the Canal du Midi. October 12th we make our way to Paris, via Valence, where we have friends, for a few nights then to London by the 17th. Home to Vancouver on the 19th just in time for the Vancouver Writers Festival where we are volunteers, running the bar at Studio 1398!
Have a fabulous house here in Neffiès. Jamie, friend from London will join me on 11th for a week. Plenty of room, (three bedrooms and more, with fold-out sofa beds), so hop a plane and I'll pick you up in Béziers! I bought a Montague Navigator, foldbable road bike, in York, and have been using it everywhere, (other than in London!), and it has been more than a delight. Countryside here is nothing but vineyards and lovely rolling hills dotted with tiny villages. Roads are almost custom built for cyclists and there is very little traffic.
Time for breakfast before setting out. Think I'll go for a longish ride shortly, to avoid the heat of the day. Keep in touch. If you are ever back in Vancouver be great to get together. Fondestos and Cheers, Patrizzio!
Hi Zoe!
Trust you and Matt are well! I gather your parents might well be in Italy now. Had hoped they could join me here but itineraries just didn't quite work out. Fondestos and Cheers, Patrizzio!
Hi Lads!
Trust everyone is well and starting to pack! Sarge, with respect to additional charges for canal barge if you are on the third shelf, I think you probably owe me three or four thousand!!! Fondestos and Cheers, Patrizzio!
Hi patrizio
So glad you arrived safe and sound in the end and are enjoying France. On Monday
I went dancing with LOD and met ang Lynda and Kim there. Yesterday played badders and table tennis but all this goes out the window today as going to leaving do at work then joans cream tea on Sat!
If poss can u email me a few pics of party as I didn't take any. Have fun et bon vacance xx
Hi D, looks and sounds devine, when do some of your friends arrive?? Seems weird for you to be alone mind the bugs and bats!!
Keep your olive oil purchases to a minimum, Al is taking drawings
to metal shop, we need funds on this side for quality metal work.
Love Chloe and the terrible tone deaf Maggster!!! xxxxxxxxx
Dad, look what picture was selected to be in our annual general report for volunteers!!! xxHi Aunt Leah's Poster Girl, et al!
Can you use the royalties to pay Big Al for the "quality metal work"? Don't mind being alone. Bugs and bats are actually quite pleasant companions, even the huge hornet which flew into the kitchen yesterday evening and ended up singeing himself on the burner heating up my butter beans! Just diced him up to put him out of his misery and popped the pieces into the casserole! Bit of horseradish and Yummy!
Another fabulous day in Paradise! Lazy sleep-in until 8;30 am! Up for a java and a bit of messaging before I had my butter beans for breakfast, jet-fuel for coming ride! Suited up and left Beau Soleil around 10:45 am. Headed back to Fontes but once out of there I turned towards Adissan and then Paulhan. Am struck by how similar it is to riding in both McLaren Vale and Dry Creek in Sonoma. The vineyards, the rolling hills and the sunny, clear skies. Hard to believe that such wonderful cycling is almost everywhere one turns, another new village, another town square with old men and women sitting in the shade, casting quizzical looks at the mad stranger out in the heat of the midday sun, another valley bottom with manicured vineyards, another hilltop town with church spire visible for miles.
When I reached Lézigna-la-Cèbe I turned and headed back as I had a rough idea of where I wanted o explore next. Took the turn-off for Nizas and then on to Caux, a very attractive, larger town. From there I connected with road back to Neffiès and passed Beau Soleil with about 35 K on the clock. Wanted to log 50+ K so headed down the avenue of plane trees towards Roujan, turnong off before entering town, making for Vailhan. Great road surface and I sailed along, soon to find myself beside a small river/stream and quite enjoyed its cooling effect. Bit of a long, gradual climb into Vailhan itself, a small but pretty hillside village. Rode through it and then turned around just past the sign indicating you have left ville in question.
Knew I was in pretty good shape once back in Vailhan as it was a good swoop downhill and rest of way back towards Roujan was level, more or less. Took a small side road back to Neffiès, (one I'd come across yesterday), and then I was heading back towards Beau Soleil. Was avergaing 20.3 KPH but slight climb up Avenue de Fontes knocked me back down to 20.2 KPH but I was pleased with ride, speed and above all, the glorious terrain.
Today's ride stats:
http://connect.garmin.com/activity/370387810#.UicaGxOHi2A.email
Quick shower and java, (while I cooled off), and change of clothes to head into Pézenas for more scope-age, advance reconnoiterage! Left Beau Soleil at just before 2:00 pm and first headed into Roujan to see if I could buy some olive oil from place where proprietor was not around yesterday. This time there was a car parked outside one of the buildings I assumed might be where sales took place. Once I'd parked I knocked on a number of doors but nobody answered. Thought I might as well walk around to the back of the property to see if perhaps there was somebody there who couldn't hear the knocks. Turned out to be just the friendly black Lab who had licked my hand yesterday. Just as friendly today but all he did when I asked him about his owner's whereabouts was to lie down on the cool stone patio and wag his tail, his tongue lolling out of the side of his mouth, in the baking afternoon heat.
Disappointed, I told him that both Spudnik, in Blackwater, and MimiMimenheimer, in Mill Hill, were far more helpful, and made my way back towards the front of the building. By this time an elderly gentleman was seated near one of the doors I'd knocked upon. He didn't seem particularly pleased that I'd roused him from his afternoon sieste so I apologized as best I could and asked if it was possible to buy some olive oil. Twenty shrugs mixed with a barrage of monologue I couldn't fathom, in the least, and he rose from his seat, rather painfully, it seemed, and opened the door beside him. I wasn't sure what to do but followed him inside and was about to enter what I took to be an office or storeroom of some sort when I had the door slammed in my face! So much for customer service!
He returned shortly, shrugging and jabbering, and I got the gist of his meaning: No Fuckin' Olive Oil, virgin or otherwise! Refusing to give up I asked if it was possible to buy some olives and after a bit more grizzling, he headed towards another outbuilding. Followed him inside and saw him enter a large walk-in cooler, (I'd heard the compressor when I walked around the side of the house but didn't realize what it was, at the time.), and while he was pottering about inside I snapped a few pictures of the racy calendar pin-ups tacked to the walls.
He returned with a jar of Olives Vertes, Lucques. Wasn't sure if they were cured and if one could eat them right away so to be sure I tried to ask if they could be eaten now, "maintenant." Of course, he understood that I wanted to taste them before buying his product so he opened the jar and offered it to me. Decided to go along with him as I knew it would be impossible for me to make my original question understood and so gladly picked one out of the brine and popped it into my mouth.
Delicioso indeed so I asked for two jars. Tad more grizzling but his mood seemed to have improved a bit and he put the jars in a bag, carefully tying it, and I paid him, €7 each. He then proceeded to take out a pocket calendar and indicated that the next pressing would take place in early November and I could buy some olive oil then. Told him I'd be back in Canada by then and I got another dismissive shrug. Still, he did produce a big smile when I asked if I could take his picture. Shook hands and said our goodbyes. Learned later that I'd been dealing with Jean René Blayac, Producteur, Domaine "La Tuilerie" and I've signed up for one of his on-line business management seminars: The Customer is Always a Nuisance/Le Client et Toujours une Nuisance! Free litre of olive oil and jar of olives for every one who registers before he takes his next nap!
Knew which road to take out of Roujan towards Pézenas so I was soon zipping along D13, enjoying the wonderful, wonderful avenue of plane trees that radiate out from Roujan like the spokes of my Navigator, the one to Neffiès almost the whole way between the two villages. Not much of a drive, about 14 km, so I was soon on the outskirts, looking for parking. Wasn't quite sure where to find usual public parking lots so just followed my nose, taking streets around the old town centre/Le Centre Historique and after a few minutes found a place to park, in the shade, for free! Oriented myself by taking a picture of the impressive statue of the Immaculate Virgin at the top of the street where I'd left the car.
Wandered into a number of antique shops as I made my way into town. Later learned that
"Pézenas is well known for it's antique shops, with over thirty of them lining the main route through the town." Once I found the old town I spent the next two hours wandering the labyrinth of narrow, cobbled streets lined with shops and boutiques selling local arts and crafts. A "must" when Cora Lee is here!
Also came across a number of interesting historical markers, the first,
castle was originally built by the Duc de Montmorency, François de Montmorency, in 1575 but during the 17th century, Cardinal Richelieu, sworn enemy of the Duc de Montmorency, Henri II, ordered the castle destroyed.
Kept going, almost having to flip a coin every time I came to an intersection, such was the allure of the high buildings, galleries and workshops which lined these colourful, narrow streets. More by chance than anything else, I found myself back in the town square. Reoriented, I walked back to my car and drove but a few blocks to the Carrefour, (French equivalent, I gather, of Sainsbury's or Morrisons), I'd seen billboards for and asked about earlier in my wanderings. Glad that I'm here for another three weeks as plenty to see and do, (No question, now, that I will attend Saturday's market!), in just this one town, let alone places like Carcassonne.
Wanted to stock up on a host of staples, (toilette paper, olive oil, (Now that Jean Renéwas being so difficult!), balsamic vinegar, pasta and jam, (filler for for Sir James and his insatiable appetite!), a variety of condimenti and some fruit and vegetables to get me through to Saturday when I hope to buy fresh produce at the market. Kind of fun shopping in another culture and even waiting in line was amusing. groceries paid for and self-bagged I loaded everything into my sporty Peugeot and barreled home, having gotten the hang of both the higher gears and the speed limits.
Couple of trips to unload my haul and sherpa it upstairs. After putting things away I made myself a java and took a look at my messages, working on The Diaries for an hour or so before starting my dinner: beef kidney, Dear Reader! One of my favourites but not to Cora Lee's taste, I regret to say, finding such offal awful. Why should you eat kidney, Duhlink? "Kidney is a good source of Protein, Vitamin C and Zinc, and a great source of Vitamin A, Thiamin, Riboflavin, Niacin, Vitamin B6, Folate, Vitamin B12, Pantothenic Acid, Iron, Phosphorus, Copper and Selenium." Reason enough for me but more importantly, I simply like the taste.
Diced some garlic and oniones, sautéed them in olive oil and then added the thinly sliced kidneys, letting them simmer until just poifect. Ate in ecstasy, reading a few chapters of Gods and Beasts. Was going to open one of the bottles of Ormarine 2012 Picpoul de Pinet, 12.5%, on sale at Carrefour, €4.59/$6.36, but I was still quite thirsty from my ride so I opted for water instead. Plan to treat myself to a malt or two before I turn in so
all's well that ends well!
Washing up, what there was of it, done, I settled in to answer email and managed to update The Diaries as well. Not a whisper of wind tonight but place is not stuffy. Not a sound either, not even a cicada clicking in the darkness. Just lights of Roujan glittering at me, a silent, binary, golden Morse code telling me how lucky I am. Off to bed shortly as I plan to try to ride around 8:00 am tomorrow. (Forecast predicts it will be 19º C tomorrow morning but 27º C by the afternoon! Same forecast suggests Saturday, Sunday and Monday will be Cloudy with showers, Thundershowers, Cloudy with showers, respectively, then back to Sunny, 26º, on Tuesday.) Must say I have been sleeping extremely well, just the right touch of coolness to keep me from over-heating! Good Night, Dear Reader, where ere ye be!
Fondestos, Love and Cheers, Dad/Patrizzio!
Pics: Latest wine tally; friendly, hot pooch; Jean René; various shots from afternoon in Pézenas.
How is the weather in the south of France. W
Hi Sarge!
Weather here has been absolutely glorious! Today was another fabulous day in Paradise! Cheers, Patrizzio!
Hi Patrick!
Thank you for your email and pleased to know that you arrived at your French destination without too many problems. We were very concerned to hear of Corrines fall. Outcome could have been much worse and doesn't bear thinking about. Gayle had an email from her yesterday and she seems to be getting around OK although still painful when walking up stairs. It sounds as though it is very hot over there. Gayle and I visited Venice a few years ago around this time and I remember us being drenched in perspiration walking around but well worth the discomfort. Such an iconic place!
We returned from the Island last evening after a very enjoyable couple of days. Stayed in a very nice hotel by Laurel Point which was on the waterfront and an easy walk along the seawall into town. Went to the new Robert Bateman exhibition with Kris while Mark had an afternoon snooze! Haven't seen Bateman's originals since we worked in Ottawa back in the seventies where there was a gallery dedicated to his work. If only I had bought a painting of his back in those days! Took the puppy on some nice walks at nearby lake. It was Krissy and Marks anniversary while we were there so we took them for cocktails at the Empress before before taking them to a Thai restaurant for dinner (where else eh!) They in turn took us to a couple of their favourite pubs for beer! They and their friends seem to be drinking this ghastly flavoured beer which appears to be the in thing at the moment. A good old Molson Canadian is good enough for me!
We were going to go out Whale watching Friday but the weather looks unsettled so will try next week although I think we are supposed to go to Gibsons for a couple of days to visit some friends so will have to wait and see. Also have to spend a couple of days with Mark finishing his wood flooring at some point before they leave for Mexico. Time is marching on!
I hope you have now settled into your new home and enjoying spending time getting to know the area. Keep in touch. Regards, Derek Hi Robert Bateman Fans!
You seem to know more about Cora Lee than do I! Nevertheless, glad to know she can climb stairs, even if it is second-hand reportage! Victoria sounded full and more than pleasant. Belated aniversary congratulations to Krissy and Mark! Guess life in Vancouver isn't all unadulterated play if you have to spend time with flooring installation! Fondestos and Cheers to Gayle, et al, Patrizzio!
great to get all your news.Hopr all well in France and Corinne.I assume all is well.Sir James.
Hi Sir James!
Pleased to hear from you. Fondestos to Lady Patrizzia and Cheers to you both, Patrizzio!
Pleased to hear from you. Fondestos to Lady Patrizzia and Cheers to you both, Patrizzio!
Hi again, Sir James!
Just a bit of an update, via Gayle/Derek, about Cora Lee. (They seem to know more about her, post-accidento, than do I!) Nevertheless, glad to know that she can climb stairs, even if it is uncomfortable! Fondestos and Cheers to you both, Patrizzio!
Just a bit of an update, via Gayle/Derek, about Cora Lee. (They seem to know more about her, post-accidento, than do I!) Nevertheless, glad to know that she can climb stairs, even if it is uncomfortable! Fondestos and Cheers to you both, Patrizzio!
Pat, Very sorry to here about Corinne's fall. Fortunate that she didn't break any bones. Major law suites taking place in the NFL at the moment re concussion injuries and the lack of proper treatment.
Glad the journey through France went well. Their trains are very good indeed. It looks as though you are well set up in Neffies.
Sylvia and I drove over the Coquihalla yesterday which was pretty straight forward other than a torrential rainstorm at the top. Temperature dropped to 13 degrees but it had doubled by the time we drove into the sun in Penticton. Sylvia's brother,Ed, and his wife Pat are staying near to our motel in their trailer and we are supposed to get out on the Kettle Valley today on the bikes but it is raining quite hard at the moment, so we might have to wait till the afternoon. Had dinner with Ed and Pat last night in the trailer park which is very well appointed. That salmon and recently picked garden produce went down well. We will do something similar this evening. They are heading to Bend, Oregon next week - 900K in one go.
Heard from Jim Brownlee this morning. He is able to run again having sorted his heel problem.
Have a good month in France. Just finished reading 419 by Will Ferguson which I enjoyed. It's about Nigerian scams. Ray
Hi Raymond!
You sound pretty busy yourselves. Hope weather improves for Kettle Valley. I'd love to do that ride at some point in the not too, too distant future. Also interested in 419 as I've heard nothing but favourable things about it. Seem to be too busy to do much reading, of late. Not complaining but I'm supposed to be on holiday with nothing to do!!! Fondestos and Cheers to you and Sylvia, Patrizzio!
Dear
GULLiver:
Glad
to see that you are keeping busy and appear to be enjoying
yourselves.What will you be doing in the south of France
while Corrine is in Rome? Is there someone else in your life that I
should know about or will you simply be replacing Lance Armstrong at
leTour de France?
I'll suggest to George that we should wait for your return around October 19 to discuss
Pnin. After all, without you there I would be just be listening to my own voice. Come to think of it, that may not be a bad thing. Take it easy, but take it. Best,--Kurt Rathfelder, Esquire
Hello Mr Sarcastico!
Thanks for all the aspersions, veiled, proof-read marked or otherwise. Much appreciated!!! Don't fuss and fret, there is nobody else in my life but you, Nicotine Fiend that you are! Better make it two weeks after October 19th as Cora Lee and I are both volunteering for the VWF, until, and including, the 27th.Other than that, Fondestos and Cheers to you, you lecherous Squire Western, and Natalia, IL Conduttore!
Hello Ricardo!
Haven't heard from Cora Lee since I forwarded your message but I think dates will work. Will be in touch as soon as Roman Holidayer makes contact. Can't roast a turkey, only know how to drink Wild Turkey! Fondestos and Cheers to you and your Girls and Boys, IL Herr Conduttore!
Does anyone want to suggest a time and place for the next gathering? Pat is away until after 19 October. The book is Nabokov’s Pnin (Kurt) Victor has chosen Blood's a Rover by James Ellroy to follow the Nabokov G
Hi George and All,
Would like to invite NRBC to my place for the next meeting. Next five weekends are ok for me. Hope everybody is well. Misha.
"People are more afraid of insects than they are of dying, at least if you believe a 1973 survey published in The Book of Lists. Only public speaking and heights exceeded the six-legged as sources of fear ... And yet for centuries, some of the greatest minds in science have drawn inspiration from studying some of the smallest minds on earth. From Jean Henri Fabre to Charles Darwin to E.O. Wilson, naturalists have been fascinated by the lives of six-legged creatures that seem both frighteningly alien and uncannily familiar. Beetles and earwigs take care of their young, fireflies and crickets flash and chirp for mates, and ants construct elaborate societies, with internal politics that put the U.S. Congress to shame. ...
"Some of it, of course, is the sheer magnitude of almost everything about insects -- they are more numerous than any other animal, making up over 80 percent of all species. Estimates of the number of kinds of insects vary wildly, because new ones are being discovered all the time, but there are at least a million, possibly as many as ten million, which means that you could have an 'Insect of the Month' calendar and not need to re-use a species for well over eighty thousand years. Take that, pandas and kittens! At any one moment, say while you are reading this sentence, approximately ten quintillion (10,000,000,000,000,000,000) individual insects surround you in the world. All of that variety gives enormous scope for evolution to act upon. ... And then there is the sensationalism; nothing gets my students' attention like hearing about male honeybees' genitals exploding after sex, and everyone has shuddered over the female mantis eating her mate. Insects routinely do things that would put the most gruesome horror film to shame. ...
"Insects are even teaching us about mind control, and maybe even about consciousness itself. A tiny wasp called the emerald cockroach wasp can do what many renters cannot: direct the movements of a cockroach. The wasp does this not to rid a kitchen of scuttling invaders but to feed her brood. Many wasps provision their young by paralyzing other insects or spiders and carrying them back to the wasp's nest. The paralysis, as opposed to out and out killing of the prey, helps the prey stay fresh while the young wasp larva feasts on the flesh.
Of course, paralyzed insects can't put themselves into the nest, so the wasp usually has to do all the heavy lifting, staggering under the weight of her groceries as she flies back to her young. Except, that is, in the case of the jewel wasp, so named for the glittery emerald sheen of her exoskeleton. The female wasp doesn't send the roach into an immobile stupor; instead, she makes it into a zombie via a judicious sting inside the roach's head, so that its nervous system, and legs, still function well enough to allow it to walk on its own. Then, as science writer Carl Zimmer describes, 'The wasp takes hold of one of the roach's antennae and leads it, like a dog on a leash, to its doom' "
Marlene Zuk, Sex on Six Legs: Lessons on Life, Love, and Language from the Insect World, Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2011.
Hi patrizio
So glad you arrived safe and sound in the end and are enjoying France. On Monday
I went dancing with LOD and met ang Lynda and Kim there. Yesterday played badders and table tennis but all this goes out the window today as going to leaving do at work then joans cream tea on Sat!
If poss can u email me a few pics of party as I didn't take any. Have fun et bon vacance xx
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